“Everyone has an idea of The North… it’s like New York, or Paris, or Rio; you have a visual picture of it,” says Lou Stoppard, the co-curator of ‘North: Fashioning Identity’, which explores contemporary artistic and stylistic representations of the north of England. We explore the insights behind the exhibition and understand how identity in this part of Britain is formed and its effect on the rest of the UK – and the world.
As debates continue about where The North actually begins and ends, with pundits worrying about the alienating effects of the ‘London bubble’, the Somerset House exhibition provokes visitors to question their own notions, clichés and stereotypes of the region. From the tight-knit Mancunian Gallagher family in TV show Shameless, to 1980s rave culture and the Haçienda, to the quintessential northern countryside often ignored in favour of industrial cities, people are encouraged to consider why it’s provided inspiration for both British and international artists. Featuring over 100 photographs, fashion garments and artworks by UK artists and those who were directly influenced by elements of northern England, the exhibition displays The North as a multifaceted place steeped in history and culture.
“The North feels very familiar to people who have never actually visited it; they can connect to certain visual codes or motifs, or the individuals or songs from the region that contributed to the formative experiences of their youth,” says Lou Stoppard, the critic, curator, and author of Fashion Together who developed the exhibition with Manchester-based academic Adam Murray. Demonstrating how the region’s influence extends beyond the nation’s borders, British photographers like John Bulmer and Alice Hawkins – who often depict idealised, ‘authentic’, working-class scenes – appear alongside internationally-renowned designers; Belgian fashion designer Raf Simons was “captivated by the post-punk sounds and look” created by Peter Saville for Manchester’s Factory Records, while Chicago-born Virgil Abloh of Off White, who was “enthralled by the kind of ultra-cool, ultra-nuanced world of the Hacienda,” has released pieces in collaboration with the Ben Kelly, the club’s interior designer.
But while the region has undoubtedly influenced global culture, many of its residents continue to feel underserved by British brands. Research reveals that people living outside of London are 21% more likely to feel that advertising isn't aimed at those in their local area, and are 25% more likely to say brands don’t understand people there. And as 40% of those surveyed said they wouldn’t care if 48 of the major brands suggested in the survey didn’t exist, there is a continued desire for brands and organisations to consider the region on its own terms. “Now more than ever brands need to ensure they are connecting with people, especially outside London,” notes Andrew Tenzer, head of group insight at Trinity Mirror.
Mica Anthony is an editorial assistant at Canvas8, which specialises in behavioural insights and consumer research. She’s passionate about uncovering the newest electronic music producers, re-living ‘90s fashion and championing the voices often left out of mainstream media.
