India's streetwear scene is heating up, with homegrown champions fighting hard for space alongside established cult legends from the West. Additionally, post-pandemic comfort clothing is now blending with Gen Z’s fondness for the, if you know, you know (IYKYK) culture to make a potent fashion mix.
Scope
There might be no set definition of ‘streetwear’ – an aesthetic rooted in 80s and 90s surf, skate, and hip-hop cultures that has long been a canvas for self-expression, often outside mainstream fashion. But the look has taken on a life of its own in countries worldwide, such as India, during the post-pandemic era, with a slew of homegrown labels adding granularity and excitement to a landscape that risked becoming homogenised. Though streetwear came roaring into India in the mid-2010s alongside sneaker culture – leading many to assume both are synonymous – ‘cool’ brands marketed towards the young have been around for a while.
One of the secrets behind the growth of the streetwear market is the buildup of India’s sportswear market, valued at $9.4 billion and is expected to reach $12.4 billion by 2027, according to Euromonitor. [1] Additionally, the Indian sneaker market has projected revenue of $2.8 billion for the fiscal year 2024. [2] This combination of factors has led to India’s streetwear segment reaching INR 5.3 trillion (around $63.53) billion in 2023 (a significant portion of the $185 billion global market), a Deloitte study reveals. [3] “The USA is the largest exporter of popular culture across the world, so whatever streetwear symbolically stands for out there, it does so everywhere else,” says stylist and creative consultant Ekta Rajani. “However, in India, the streetwear scene is also evolving uniquely, adapting to local sensitivities and cultural nuances.” [4] Though it still draws its cues from communities and subcultures emerging in the West, Indian streetwear is slowly growing to tell its own stories to make a mark on India’s youth – one of the largest young populations in the world. “It’s never been easier to start your own brand,” says Bhavisha Dave, half of the founding duo behind Capsul, India’s first multi-brand streetwear store. “Today, either you’re a designer or a friend is – and it’s so easy to get stuff printed. Though (the) hype has overshadowed streetwear for a long time, this industry is well and thriving.” [5]
Beyond the clout of international streetwear labels like Supreme, A Bathing Ape, Stüssy, and The Hundreds, an evolving group of homegrown designers and brands from India like Almost Gods, Jaywalking, Biskit, Six5six Street, and Toffle, and sneaker brands like Gully Labs and Comet are hoping to cement a spot in the industry. The homegrown designs, aided by small-scale production, limited marketing, and culture-driven details, are creating a distinct voice and injecting fresh blood and dynamism into the larger fashion scene. This is further bolstered by social media, which has provided a platform for streetwear enthusiasts, designers, and brands to get the word out. This ties in well when considering how 94% of social media users in India have made apparel purchases via the online platforms they use and how India’s Gen Z is 50% more likely to make purchases based on a friend’s recommendation over that of a celebrity or influencer. [6] [7] But India is also a very price-sensitive market. What does this mean for the future of streetwear in India, and how can brands balance the exclusivity and hype of streetwear with broader accessibility?
Homegrown brands popping up
There are several gaps in the Indian streetwear scene, and while we’re seeing an increasing number of international brands pulling up to India, access to many is still restricted. “For instance, everybody wants to get (merch from brand collabs with American rapper and streetwear star) Travis Scott at the moment, but we don’t carry that because we just don’t have access to it,” said Abhineet Singh, co-founder of India’s pioneering multi-brand sneaker store VegNonVeg to The Business of Fashion. “Part of it is that brands have to make a case all the way up the chain to the (partner brands’) headquarters to (secure it for us).” [1] Such gaps are now seeing Indian players stepping in to fill the void, wanting a piece of the action. “When we started off, people were of the mindset that why should they spend on a local brand when they could get an international one at the same price,” says Dave, whose online store kicked off in 2018 with no local brands on its roster. “But today, almost 50% of the brands we stock are homegrown.” [5]
A Nielsen study found that 72% of young Indian shoppers prefer to purchase from local brands since they want to support community businesses, which they hope will lead to job creation and economic stability. [8] This has aided many brands in India to expand their footprint, such as New Delhi-based Bluorng, founded in 2020, which recently opened stores in Delhi, Mumbai, and Hyderabad. Mumbai-based Jaywalking, founded by Jay Jajal, opened a fourth store in Ahmedabad in January. “We were the first ones to sell T-shirts that start at INR 6,000 (about $71.92). When people see my life now – my new car, my new house, or my new office – they realise there’s money in streetwear,” Jajal told GQ India. [9]
Several local brands are also leaning on the desi-chic element that factors in local textiles, techniques, embroidery, and the work of artisans. New Delhi’s NorBlack NorWhite has vivid hues and unabashed prints that are quintessentially Indian, whereas Kardo, also based out of the capital city, uses techniques like traditional weaving. “I feel this revolution is because the young are proud of our identity and heritage but also because Indian brands are doing a really good job and offering great quality,” says Dave. “They might not even have an ‘Indian’ touch, so to say, like Jaywalking does not, but can still stand shoulder to shoulder with the international giants.” [5]
Global brands moving in
In 2023, New York-based streetwear and sneaker boutique Extra Butter opened its first store in Mumbai. [10] In the lead-up to the launch, the company sponsored a skate park and engaged with creative communities, including at the Lollapalooza India music fest. [1] The boutique houses streetwear labels like A Bathing Ape, Neighborhood, Pleasures, Marni, Asics, and Puma. Building on its momentum, the brand already has plans to open stores in Delhi and Bangalore by 2025. [11]
In October 2023, Adidas collaborated with Extra Butter for a cricket-inspired collection exclusive to the Indian market. [12] "I see a lot of parallels in the current Indian streetwear market to what it looked like back in 2007 to 2008 in NYC,” Extra Butter co-founder and CEO Ankur Amin told GQ India. [13] “Sneakers are a winning category in the current landscape, and there are other prominent retailers knocking on the door to enter India. I love our position of being an early mover here, and I’m thrilled about being able to tell some of the stories that get us excited about this culture,” he continued. Even Southeast Asian brands like Singapore-based sneaker boutique Limited Edt opened its first store in India in early 2024. [14] The store stocks products from Japanese artist Takashi Murakami, California-based Noon Goons, and Bearbrick figures from Japan’s Medicom, among others.
Apart from Capsul, curators like Crepdog Crew, Mainstream Marketplace, and SoleSearch feature a mix of international and local brands and artists. Though a 2023 Mintel study showed increasing localism among Indians, with 42% preferring homegrown clothing and accessory brands over imported ones, India’s still a booming market for retail across the board, with projections indicating a leap to an impressive $2 trillion retail market by 2033, up from $820 billion in 2023. [15] [16] This explains why brands like Balenciaga, Läderach, and Pottery Barn opened their first stores in the country recently, and others like Pull & Bear and Bershka are set to open soon. [17] [18] While broader global consumption is sluggish, booming retail sectors like fashion are seeing international brands prioritise an India strategy. [19]
The pandemic push
Ironically, the pandemic created a time when one couldn’t take to the streets at all, but this is what pushed streetwear adoption in India to new heights. This is in no small part due to the ease with which one can wear the clothes. “Comfort is a huge reason behind the rise and rise of sporty street style,” says Rajani. “When grandmas and grandpas are seen wearing track pants and sweatshirts, it's moved beyond the cool quotient and become a classic. But younger folks wanted to take the ease of clothes they’d grown accustomed to into their workspaces and find (a) stylish everyday style that fits their lifestyle shift as well.” [4]
Urban athleisure, a fusion of street fashion and athletic wear, has become increasingly popular across the globe, including in countries like South Korea and China. According to a Maximize Market Research report, the Indian sports apparel market was valued at $673.34 million in 2022 and is expected to reach around $1.92 billion by 2029, demonstrating a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 16.2%. [20] The rising popularity of sports like pickleball, the growing attention of fans towards athletes, regarding them as celebrities rather than just sports icons, and a post-pandemic induced global shift towards health and physical agility has also helped athleisure thrive.
From oversized tees to relaxed-fit joggers, comfort and functionality are paramount in streetwear, aligning perfectly with our evolving perspectives on dressing – whether it's power dressing or casual fits. This explains why Canadian yoga wear brand Lululemon Athletica is soon entering India and why homegrown brands like Huemn have built a fan base for their oversized androgynous silhouettes. [21]
Insights and opportunities
Build on the community for connection
The genesis of streetwear is rooted in connection, a kind of, if you know, you know (IYKYK) culture built on belonging. But today, as the disconnect between audiences valuing streetwear’s foundations and businesses cashing in grows, brands can create identities around shared tastes and values. For Huemn, this narrative revolves around a community of loyalists drawn to its unisex fashion with diverse creative influences. The brand has collaborated with portrait photographer Mark Hanauer to produce T-shirts featuring his photos of American poet Charles Bukowski. It’s also partnered with Kashmiri creatives such as fine artist Syed Mujtaba Rizvi, photojournalist Azaan Shah, and artist/architect Zoya Khan. Dave emphasises the significance of community events, too, “At our events, you don't remember what you shopped or ate, but you remember that feeling.” [5] This offline connection is especially significant in today's hyper-connected online world. A study from the World Health Organization found that 10% of adolescents globally are lonely, giving brands an opportunity to build IRL communities with younger generations. [22] Fashion's foray into gaming, exemplified by Balenciaga's in-game clothes and limited edition physical garments for Fortnite in 2021, showcases how brands can immerse themselves in spaces of shared interest.
Emphasise transparency and sustainability
In an industry plagued by waste, prioritising environmentalism is paramount. Indians are aware of this fact, which has caused the sustainable fashion market in the country to grow at a projected CAGR of 10.6% from 2021 to 2026, according to a report from Research and Markets. [23] Streetwear brands can capitalise on this by offering repair and upcycling options. Sustainability efforts also serve as effective PR strategies. Puma’s extension of its Voices of a RE:GENERATION initiative to include Indian sustainable fashion advocate Aishwarya Sharma underscores this trend. [24] Rajani highlights the challenge of balancing sustainability with trends, “Today, chasing cool is so high on the priority list, and sustainability efforts are the lowest hanging fruit, so both can actually co-exist.” [4] Some, like Jharkhand-based brand Johargram, successfully merge sustainability with style by crafting streetwear using indigenous crafts and handlooms. Yet, as Rajani notes, people are buying for the design and cool cred, not primarily for sustainability. “Embedding sustainability as a default feature could bridge this gap. Looking ahead, government mandates on transparency and sustainability may become inevitable. Brands that integrate sustainability into their ethos now can avoid desperate pivots in the future.” [4]
Mix affordability with exclusivity
What’s popular is now determined by people liking, sharing, and retweeting, and streetwear fashion can dig into counter cultures that don’t rely so heavily on logos to draw in audiences. Single-product drops and lotteries maintain exclusivity without exorbitant prices, catering to average-income buyers. This trend resonates in price-sensitive India, where 59% actively pursue discounts and limited edition deals during the spending sprees of the festive seasons. [25] Despite India’s forecasted luxury market growth, challenges like inequality and unemployment persist, with the youth unemployment rate reaching 44.49% for those aged 20 to 24 in Q4 2023. [26] When Bollywood superstar Shah Rukh Khan’s son, Aryan, debuted his streetwear brand D’YAVOL X. in April 2023, he got massively trolled for its high price points. [27] In this context, consumers prioritise value, intensifying the demand for accessible luxury options. Rajani stresses how streetwear is, in fact, a leveller of sorts. “There was a time when everyone wore something basic regardless of their socioeconomic background. But today, everyone from (filmmaker and TV host) Karan Johar to my house help's college-going daughter will wear a sweatshirt. Even brands are looking for the next new thing off the streets.” [4]
