Since 2011, Dolls Kill’s candy-coloured rebellious clothing has proved a hit with the Tumblr set, with sales reaching $7.5 million in 2013. But how has this brand managed to sell ‘bad acid trip’-inspired miniskirts by the bucket-load without any traditional marketing?

Facebook group Wavey Garms is a place for ‘cool’ people to sell their second-hand designer clothing – but not everyone gets accepted. With over 1,000 membership requests every week, what’s drawing the numbers?

Traditional ‘teen’ retailers like A&F are battling high unemployment rates, rapidly changing social landscapes and the increasingly fickle nature of fashion to stay afloat in a competitive market. But if teens aren’t dropping their cash here, then where are they shopping?

For today's youth, neo-tribalism is the new clique. Leaving blind conformity behind, these fast-moving, flexible cultures are a cocktail of affiliations and references, always shifting and reforming. But if everyone can be whoever they like, how do you know who’s in or out?